If there were a color theme to this hike, it would be "green and brown." And if the Smokey's had it in them, we got it thrown at us in living color. It was a spectacular weekend and words are not enough to describe the hike, so included are a host of pictures, and hopefully the words will fill in the gaps where the pictures don't already speak a thousand of them ...
We decided to explore the Cataloochee area on the far East side of the GSMNP. This is an area that we had not been to yet and we were hoping to get a good hike in. Having a day job stinks sometimes, but is necessary, so the hubster and I were not able to make it in time to see the sunset Friday night, but Rod and Pam did, and below is their photo describing the scene. This is on the way up to Balsam Mountain Campground.
We made it to the campground after dark, and didn't get any photos until morning. We decided to try car camping for the first time. It was probably the last time we'll do that again, at least until we get a new vehicle ... but it did keep us warm and dry.
Our hike for the day was 13.7 mile loop starting at the Polls Gap trailhead off Heintooga Ridge Road. We didn't get a very early start, which we regretted later. Lesson learned. The photo below is taken from the National Geographic Map.
This photo is taken from the book "Day Hiker's Guide to all the Trails in the Smoky Mountains," by Liz Etnier. This book is our PLAN. Our GUIDE.
Our friends, the Gano's, who saved our camping spot, joined us for the first section of our hike. They were hiking down into the Catalochee Valley. And here we all are with the obligatory sign photo:
It was a misty morning with low-hanging clouds. Of course, the elevation was around 5,000+ feet, so the clouds weren't really that low.
This looks like popcorn.
A fungus amoung us ...
We would pay money to know the story behind this tree. What made that dramatic detour in growth? Matthew had fun with it ...
Scattered along the trail in unexpected places are the white pieces of quartz rock. No rhyme or reason other than to add to the beauty.
The south side of the Hemphill Bald trail ran along the park boundary. Years ago, the Civilian Conservation Corps made fencing along the borders of the park to keep livestock from entering the park. It is still visible today, although probably not keeping much out.
The overwhelming color for the first part of the trip was green. Just luscious and deep, with varying shades ... Who could ask for a more relaxing color?
Just off the trail, a grassy area begged to be explored. We spent some time wandering through looking at the large trees and enjoying the GREEN of it all.
A little further along, the huge skeleton of a majestic American Chestnut still managed to grab the passerby for a pose.
We got to the shelter of a rhododendron tunnel just as it began to sprinkle. The leaves provided natural protection and the teenager in the crowd suggested that it was a perfect time to eat. When it is not? Especially when burning calories?
If we hadn't sat down for lunch where we did, sprinkles of rain hitting us here and there, we would have missed the Indian Pipe hiding in the corner of the trail.
After lunch, we suited up for the weather, as the rain was continuing. We were reminded that this is, after all, a temperate rainforest. It wasn't hot, and the jackets kept us comfortable and dry.
Further on, we passed a number of hikers coming down from Hemphill Bald, where they had gotten rained out. We continued to walk along the park boundary.
Not the big black beast we were hoping to catch a glimpse of, but a pleasant surprise, none the less ...
We began the ascent onto the bald, and were afraid that we'd not have a view at all. The clouds were thick and the air misty. We imagined a view, and occasionally could see a distant hill through fleeting clouds.
Upon arriving at Hemphill Bald, we were greeted with sunshine and shed our jackets.
The clouds became thinner and the view improved by the minute. What a gift!
The tradition of chocolate ... enjoyed on the bald made it taste even better, if that is possible.
Drying in the sun ...
Coming down from the bald, we continued to enjoy wide open fields and soaring clouds.
We met these two hikers, Chuck, on the left, and the gentleman on the right (who told me his name twice), and since I didn't write it down, I don't remember it! If you are reading this, please let us know and remind me of your name. It was good to meet you and we hope we run into you again! This writer is contemplating an umbrella, it sure would have made things easier on this hike. I'm glad to see I wouldn't be alone. The gentleman (whose name I do not recall) made a 18 mile hike in 8 hours (In the Smokey's, which means there was an elevation change, guaranteed). We were in the company of hiking greatness!!
Dodging raindrops all day, rain coats on and off, back pack covers on and off, cell phone in water-proof case and out again. That's the part that gets old. I'm in the process of fine-tuning my water-proofed-ness (I need a better word for that too). Which is where the idea of an umbrella comes in. Not a bad idea ... rather than carry a sword in a scabbard strapped to your side, carry an umbrella, one rain drop will hit and the umbrella can be up, and when the sun hits again, back in the scabbard it goes, with not a step missed. Who needs a sword anyway? That sure beats the stopping, taking off the pack, pulling out the rain jacket, covering the backpack, sweating after a bit of hiking in the hot rain gear, stopping again because the sun is out, putting it all away. Repeat. Repeat again. I think I've just convinced myself to add a piece of gear called an umbrella. Maybe I'll skip the scabbard though.
This behemoth jumped out at us, it was a jaw-dropper. There are very few areas in the Smokey's that weren't logged, so very few areas of virgin forest remain. This big guy was at least 6 feet in diameter.
We made it to Caldwell Fork Trail, being chased by gnats. DEET helped for a bit, but seemed to quickly wear off.
Campsite 41 had a tent set up way in the back, we didn't see any campers though, and moved on through quickly. Darkness was chasing us, we'd spent too much time donning the rain gear, gawking at trees, soaking in views, taking pictures, eating. None of which I would change. That's part of the joy of hiking. But now a sense of urgency came over us, we picked up the pace.
At the intersection of Rough Fork Trail and Caldwell Fork we noticed that the woods were completely silent. No singing cicadas, which make the night busy and loud in our neck of the woods back home. Absolute silence, expect for the Pileated Woodpecker we seemed to be bothering.
And this is where the BROWN started in. And I am a fan of the color brown, so it's not a bad word here, just to be clear. I haven't mentioned that this trail loop was muddy. Mud in patches, mud in pools, mud in pig wallows, and mud in streams. Mud everywhere. And it only got worse on Rough Fork Trail, as it is used by horses.
The arrow confirmed that we were going in the right direction!
Suddenly, it started to get dark fast. A heavy mist moved in and then we heard the pitter-patter of raindrops on millions of leaves. Again on with the jackets, cover the backpacks. Pam and I gave up and let the rain come. It felt good, we were hot.
The last mile out was in a downpour. The trail became a stream and all eyes were glued to it to prevent a miss-step. I am always grateful for my trekking poles, and rely on them in many situations. They have saved our bacon a host of times, and did again and again on the slippery trail. I am also extremely fond of my waterproof boots. I know that some folks don't care for waterproof boots because if they get wet inside, they don't dry out. But I love, love, love mine. Warm feet keep the hiker warm all over. So here at the sign, the only dry part of me was my feet.
What a sense of accomplishment! If this challenge were easy, it wouldn't be called a challenge. Our feet were tired, we were sweaty and soaked, but we did it! It was beautiful!
Now, to add to the story, we made it back to our campsite, packed up a moldy and wet tent (Rod and Pam) and decided that a hotel sounded lovely (hear shower). So we headed down the mountain to Maggie Valley, progress slow, visibility poor.
The fog kept rolling in, thick as pea soup. (Who would drive through pea soup anyway?) Suddenly a rump appeared in front of the car. Several rumps. And then a herd of rumps, jumping and leaping around in the middle of the road. It took no time to realize that we were in the middle of a herd of elk. It was the most surreal experience. The window was rolled down, an elk barreled by just out the window, going the same direction as the car. We slowly drove along, the elk continuing with us, calling to each other and running. It just happened, we were in the right spot at the right time and not a moment too late.
This may be the absolute worst picture ever of elk, but it's the only one I was able to capture.
The Smokey's are a gift from God, a gift we are thankful to be able to open, hike by hike, moment by moment.
Photo Credit: Rod, Pam, Heidi, Lisa
Total Mileage hiked: 13.7 miles
Mileage Added to 900 Mile Challenge: 13.7 miles
Total Miles Hiked Toward 900 Mile Challenge: 72.2
Miles Added to Centennial Challenge: 13.7 miles
Total Miles Hiked Toward 100 Mile Centennial Goal: 73.2
